Monday, August 11, 2008

A Whale of a Time

From Campbell River, we headed further north to Telegraph Cove.  This is a tiny town (with a population of 20), that is built on stilts along the water.  I'm sure it has historical significance, as there were plaques everywhere, but Laura and I had come for the whale watching.  

Stubbs Island Tours took us out on a four-hour tour of the area, giving us the opportunity to see Orca whales, dolphins, and porpoises.  We were warned that it would be cool out, so Laura and I trucked out in every layer we could find.  It was freezing!  I was seriously wearing three sweaters and a hat.   We were on a great little boat, with less than 30 people, and a really friendly tour guide.  For a little boat, there was lots of space, some shelter from the wind and sun, a bathroom, and warm beverages.  It was a good little set-up and far nicer than the bigger boat that left at the same time.  First car-camping and now this.  How civilized!

We started our tour by following a group of spotted dolphins.  They were in a little group, just swimming along together, popping above and below the surface.  What a great way to start a tour.  Both Laura and  I were hoping for dolphins, but they seemed less likely to find than the whales.  We then spotted a family of three whales, made up of a brother and sister who take care of their baby sister.   The tiny little fin would follow the arc of the brother orca, at times nearly glued to his side.  Adorable.  Next up were some porpoises that were traveling at quite a clip.  You can just see their tiny fins flying by in a little group.  Apparently very little is known about these guys because they travel so quickly.  Our tour ended with a male orca swimming up much closer than they would usually encourage.  As a result, we killed the engine and let him swim around us for quite some time.  The fin is huge on an adult male and arc is very graceful.  All in all, a beautiful way to spend an afternoon.

From Telegraph Cove, we headed further north to Port McNeill to catch ferry over to Alert Bay. In planning, neither of us quite realized how far north this would be or how in the middle of nowhere we would find ourselves.  Port McNeill was another super friendly small town.  We got our car into the ferry line-up and walked back to get some of the best fish & chips at McNeill's.  So tasty :)  Our ferry ride was forty minutes and got us to the Nimpkish Inn with just enough time to grab an adult beverage and see the very last of the sunset over the bay. Strangely, we also saw a perpendicular moon set shortly after.  Seriously.  We both decided to sit out and watch the moon rise and instead watched it fall behind the fence.  I don't begin to understand this, so if anyone has any insight, please let me know.  Following this mystery, we walked a short distance on the boardwalk, then tucked in for a beverage and some Flight of the Conchords.  

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